With a giant iron dinosaur looming over the front row and sand strewn on the runway, you’d be forgiven for thinking you were at Burning Man not Fashion Week this evening during Coach’s Spring show. Turns out creative director Stuart Vevers was on his way to Santa Fe, New Mexico—specifically the Ghost Ranch, famous for its prehistoric fossils and Georgia O’Keeffe paintings. What does one do with 24 hours in Santa Fe? Well, if you’re Vevers, after you’ve seen the ranch, you figure out where the cool kids are (in this case, an open-all-night dive bar).
Dressed in long distressed leather jackets, billowing cotton blouses, and languid slips that trailed the floor, the bedheaded models seemed like they’d emerged from some secret desert party. Though the moody, Stevie Nicks–inspired palette of last season was wiped clean, there was something vaguely spooky about this collection. Even the most innocent leitmotifs came with an eerie twist—scenes from classic Disney movies (Dumbo, Bambi, Pinocchio) were printed upside down on hoodies, for example. Those lovable characters were used in charming tongue-in-cheek ways, too, replacing traditional micro florals on Coach’s now-signature prairie dresses and skirts.
Of course, leather goods are this label’s main bag. Of the new outerwear ideas, the cozy, Patagonia-inspired jackets, cut from shearling instead of fleece, were the most compelling—even if the oversize proportions might be challenging for some. The backpacks and fanny packs—trimmed with fringe, covered in patches, and sometimes toggled with bungee cord—were a modern way to evolve Coach’s practical approach to luxury. They were a fun and reliable pick-me-up, whether you’re festival-bound next spring or not.
